HP Compaq d530 PSU Repair > How to remove the PSU from a d530 SFF PC

Got the replacement for 308439-001 or 308617-001? Read on to find out how to remove and replace it.

Power Supply Unit Removal

Although the PC has been designed to be mostly tooless when it comes to basic servicing, HP has made it overly difficult to remove and replace proprietary components such as the PSU. HP have made the assumption that the PSU should almost never fail, whilst the motherboard is designed to be easily replaced if it ever does fail. More often than not, the reverse is true - the PSU has a fail rate at least 10 times that of the motherboard!

If you follow these instructions, you will save yourself a lot of hassle trying to figure it out yourself. At most, only about 5 screws need removing. This method also is the least complex, and will take about ten minutes.

Before you start, make sure you have a TORX screwdriver bit that will fit the screws on the back of the d530 PC. You may also need scissors or side cutters to cut a cable tie or two. Other than that, additional tools are not required.

Removal instructions

Step 1 Position the d530 PC on a work bench so that the back is facing you.
Step 2 Open and remove the lid (hood)
Step 3 Remove the front plastic cover (the three clips hold it in place). Remove the PCI riser backplane card.
Step 4 Using a TORX (star) screwdriver bit, remove the screws from the back of the PC. This includes the uppermost left and right, the one at the power supply, and also the ones securing the hood lock. The hood lock uses security TORX screws (they have a centre post), whilst the rest of the screws can be removed using either a torx bit or a flat blade screwdriver. You can opt not to remove the hood lock, if you're careful enough when removing the panel so as not to foul the hood lock PCB onto the side of the casing.
Step 5 Lift up drive tray
Step 6 Slide the motherboard out to clear the back panel, by lifting the green release catch and pushing the motherboard back about two centimeters so it lies loose (otherwise the back panel cannot be removed in the next step).
Step 7 Carefully pull the top of the back panel away. Once it has reached an angle of about 20 degrees, the bottom can be pulled out. Be careful not to damage the copper clips (they help create good electrical contact).
Step 8 Remove the black tamper switch (the one with the red and black wires; the switch is above the power supply unit, next to the speaker).
Step 9 Lift the motherboard up on the left side, and rest it on the side of the case. The other side of the motherboard can rest on the cutouts on the bottom of the case, which will stop the board sliding back down. Try not to lift the motherboard by the centrifugal fan, otherwise you will put excessive strain on the CPU heatsink bracket, which can break.
Step 10 Disconnect the 20-pin ATX, 4-pin 12V and the 2-pin 'Fan Command' cables from the motherboard.
Step 11 The power supply can now be partially removed by sliding it out.
Step 12 Wiring looms are tied with zip-lock cable ties. On some models, the zip-lock fastener includes a tab, which can be used to release the lock, allowing the cable tie to be opened and re-used later.
Step 13 Untangle the power supply wires from the other looms. Remove the power supply.

Re-installation of the replacement

Once you have your replacement unit, re-installation is the reverse of the above. Be certain that none of the wires get poked into the fan grille of the PSU. If the PSU fan is jammed, it will overheat and blow up again!


Kabeer, Mon, 20 Jul 2009 04:33 pm: Reply
Very helpful information and really great

D-bug, Sat, 15 Aug 2009 12:37 am: Reply
Nice job on this instruction! It sure helped me replacing the PSU much faster.

Jaycee, Sun, 16 Aug 2009 08:55 pm: Reply
Great instructions - Thank you so much!!

Steve, Wed, 19 Aug 2009 05:57 am: Reply
This was extremely helpful. It's funny that the PSU is the hardest thing to remove, but the first component to go.

Thanks a lot!

Eugene, Wed, 26 Aug 2009 04:06 am: Reply
Great information!!! I wish I had found this site before I had to figure out how to remove the PSU myself. You've got the procedure down pat! Thank you.

David, Thu, 03 Sep 2009 06:02 am: Reply
Add another name to the list of grateful people. Thanks very much for posting this!

Rach, Fri, 04 Sep 2009 01:15 pm: Reply
Hi, what a lifesaver! Thanks heaps for this info

HLee, Sat, 05 Sep 2009 04:22 pm: Reply
It is excellent, great instructions and very helpful - Thank you so much!!

Danny, Wed, 09 Sep 2009 03:35 pm: Reply
Thank you. Your instructions prevented me from nearly wreaking my d530!

billy, Thu, 10 Sep 2009 02:04 am: Reply
Thank You. I've ruined way too many of these trying to get the PSU out.

kevfern, Thu, 17 Sep 2009 06:28 am: Reply
excellent instruction though the screws on the back werent exacttly located in the same place. now to put it back once i order it

r gray, Fri, 25 Sep 2009 07:31 pm: Reply
I have one of these units.the fan on the power supply stopped,so being an old man of 80 and not much dough.I decided to take out the power supply myself,after removing a number of screws, and a bit of leverage I got the damn thing out,without touching the mother board,the fan is removed,the whole power supply is sitting on the top its still connected,I have a household fan blasting air in the top as the top plate is off the power supply it has been running all day for almost a fortnight,and it will stay that way untill I can get another fan and shove it all back together,I thought you might like to hear this story,Thanks again a good site Mr R gray

smac, Thu, 22 Oct 2009 09:33 pm: Reply
Awsome. thanks so much.

Thank you!, Tue, 03 Nov 2009 06:55 am: Reply
Thanks for posting this how-to. This was the third time we have replaced one of these PSU's and we can never remember the weird things you have to do in order to take them out.

Thanks again!

rodge, Wed, 04 Nov 2009 02:46 pm: Reply
wow - now i don't feel badly about having disected the whole case pretty much, to figure out how to get the ps out <laughs>

Tony Phillips, Sat, 21 Nov 2009 02:37 pm: Reply
Thank you for posting this useful article. It most likely saved me from buying a new CPU!

Jim, Tue, 24 Nov 2009 09:40 am: Reply
Hi All,
Where can I find a reasonable price replacement power supply for this unit in US or Canada?
Thanks for any help and Thank You for this most helpful post. HP would not help at all.

Stewart, Wed, 02 Dec 2009 02:08 am: Reply
Excellent...... 10/10. Thank you for this very helpful walk through. Saved me hours of head scratching to try and figure out how to replace the psu.

ted, Sun, 27 Dec 2009 08:44 am: Reply
GREAT !!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks

khan, Mon, 11 Jan 2010 03:02 pm: Reply
plz also tell how to remove processor fan and heatsink

jb, Thu, 14 Jan 2010 09:06 am: Reply
thanks a million

MXM, Wed, 03 Feb 2010 08:49 am: Reply
how to remove the power cord connector from psu to have the board completely free??

Rashmi, Wed, 10 Feb 2010 03:41 am: Reply
Thank you for posting this information. I was able to replace the power supply

DBCC, Fri, 12 Feb 2010 10:08 pm: Reply
Cheers, HP make great machines. but PSUs are a pain in the arse!

Hyder, Sat, 13 Feb 2010 07:21 pm: Reply
Thanks for the tutorial, I don't have much money, but I will pay if I have to , to get bigger pictures of what your doing there. It's very hard to see. please let me know how much, my email is milleniumchief@hotmail.com

Montana, Fri, 12 Mar 2010 01:29 am: Reply
Zikomo! Almost pulled my hair out trying to replace one of these...

Corey, Tue, 30 Mar 2010 12:02 pm: Reply
Great instructions. I had the drive bay tray removed and all before discovering this article. Thanks

Carel, Wed, 14 Apr 2010 03:56 am: Reply
How do you jump start this power supply

Carel, Wed, 14 Apr 2010 03:56 am: Reply
How do you jump start this power supply

Scott, Fri, 23 Apr 2010 06:15 am: Reply
Never took one of these apart before until today, thank you from saving me from removing every screw until something broke!!

Hyder, Mon, 26 Apr 2010 01:40 pm: Reply
Thank you so much !!! I´ve had my HP dead for several months and you helped me bring it back to life !

Martijn, Thu, 06 May 2010 07:22 am: Reply
Your description was extremely helpful. Today I replaced a blown-up PSU in less than 1 hour, following your instructions.

Many thanks from the Netherlands

jayne, Sat, 22 May 2010 09:27 am: Reply
I have a HP Compaq netvista IBM which I have had a few years but I am wanting to change everything out of that tower into another tower but I am having problems removing the motherboard.
The problem I am having is.... I have removed all the screws from the motherboard, it seems to lift when I lift each corner except for the corner where the fan sits.
I have looked and looked to make sure there is not another screw left in but I can't see one.
Is there something else I need to remove to get the motherboard out? Or do I need to remove the fan etc to remove motherboard?

Raksha, Wed, 02 Jun 2010 02:39 am: Reply
U r awsome Srinivasa Mylaru

U r the expert u saved mu lot of money..

Tell me how much u need, i am ready to pay u.

thomaswww, Sat, 05 Jun 2010 05:46 am: Reply
Thank you very much for this tutorial :) greetz from germany

BOB, Thu, 10 Jun 2010 08:09 pm: Reply
No need to remove the motherboards it is a 5 min job to remover the PSU's in these.
admin, Thu, 10 Jun 2010 09:10 pm:
Sorry Bob, but you are incorrect. The HP Compaq d530 Small Form Factor PC power supply cannot be physically removed with the motherboard in place because the angled fan section gets in the way.

If you look at the photos properly, you will see the motherboard must be moved out of the way before the PSU can slide back and lifted up prior to removal. Otherwise the fan on the PSU will foul the motherboard.

I have repaired hundreds of these PCs, and if there really was a way of getting the PSU out without moving the motherboard out of the way, I would have done so.

Just because you have removed a power supply from a normal ATX PC case doesn't make you an expert on a big-brand proprietary PC form factor.
anon, Thu, 02 Dec 2010 10:48 am:
I agree with Bob. I have just replaced a PSU on a d530.
The back metal plate needed some convincing to get out of the way (read "bend it slightly"), but the motherboard did not need to be touched.
Clearance is very tight, so maybe it depends on the tolerance for motherboard placement. eg if its slightly to the right you can not get the PSU out, if its slightly to the left you can get the PSU out.
anon, Thu, 02 Dec 2010 12:01 pm:
Well I would not say misleading. I am sure that the guide is the most correct way - just saying that it is possible without removing the motherboard.

FARLIVE, Tue, 22 Jun 2010 09:58 am: Reply

thanks sooo much
admin, Tue, 22 Jun 2010 12:32 pm:
Yes, the tamper switch and hood lock don't affect the way the PC operates and can be removed if you prefer. They're only useful in educational and business/corporate settings where centrally managed inventory systems can detect if someone is trying to tamper with the PC. The hood lock can also be operated remotely by the sysadmin though network management (as long as the software is installed).

Rafi, Wed, 23 Jun 2010 11:20 am: Reply
thanx alot u did a great job it was very helpfull.

saleem, Wed, 07 Jul 2010 11:25 pm: Reply
PS-5181-Hfe Power Supply Burn pls i want daigram

Mark Lorenzi, Wed, 14 Jul 2010 02:54 am: Reply
Thank you, Thanks you, Thanks you... got it out. I never would have figured it out myself!!!

peter from holland, Tue, 24 Aug 2010 06:35 pm: Reply
Had to fix up an old machine. Tnx for the manual. What a crappy design !!!

SKEET, Fri, 03 Sep 2010 05:01 am: Reply

cathy, Fri, 03 Sep 2010 06:26 am: Reply
Why do I find it's impossible to lift the drive tray? Did I miss something? Pls help!
Anonymous, Wed, 22 Sep 2010 11:28 pm:
Never mind. I found out that you have to use your ultimate strength to lift the tray. And don't get scared if you hear it cracking. As far as nothing breaks, you are fine.
Anonymous, Wed, 22 Sep 2010 11:29 pm:
btw, very helpful instruction!!! thanks!

Phill, Wed, 15 Sep 2010 07:45 pm: Reply
Excellent, thankyou

phillyitsales, Mon, 25 Oct 2010 10:08 am: Reply
thank you, I was racking my brian trying to figure out why it wasnt coming out. But this made is very easy.

M Waddington, Tue, 26 Oct 2010 09:12 pm: Reply
Superbly illustrated- Was racking my brains with thIS bad boy! A truly awful design!!!

Amateur, Tue, 02 Nov 2010 02:42 pm: Reply
HP compaq worked stable until power supply stopped one day. It refused to response to any button after electrical power recovery. I opened the slim desktop as usual. However, I gave up after nearly one hour fighting and came to ask Dr. google.
Thank you very much for your works.

Juan, Fri, 12 Nov 2010 02:46 am: Reply
WRONG! if you remove the speaker and the black tamper switch you have not to remove the mainboard, just take out the screws in the case behind the power supply so you can move back it a little to unlock it from the base of case and without speaker and black tamper switch you can set free it easily.
Sorry about my English, I tried to help at least.

Este tutorial esta equivocado, desmontando el altavoz interno y el switch, se puede sacar sin tener que desmontar la placa base: Se desmontan los tornillos que hay detras de la fuente, para que ceda la chapa trasera de la caja, podras mover un poco la fuente hacia atras y asi liberarla de la caja, en realidad es el altavoz y el switch lo que impiden elevar la fuente. Para desmonar el altavoz hay un tornillo junto al switch y otro en la parte frontal de la caja.
Espero haya ayudado.


Rich, Thu, 02 Dec 2010 05:47 am: Reply
Thanks for the instructions. Great healp!

james lansford, Thu, 02 Dec 2010 06:38 am: Reply
Thanks. Instructions great.

newton, Tue, 04 Jan 2011 07:51 pm: Reply
very help full info and screen shots thankyou

mcb0, Sat, 08 Jan 2011 09:31 pm: Reply
JUAN IS RIGHT. you dn't have to remove the motherboard or even back panel.
you can remove the case switch and speaker, loosen the back panel at the PSU side and open it out a bit, then slide the PSU to the back of the case and lift it up and free.
getting the speaker out is not easy. there's the front and top screws, then slide it around and sideways. I bent up the case bit that gets i the way and cut it off when the psu was out - not drastic.

Wayne S, Tue, 01 Mar 2011 05:14 am: Reply
Kudos! God bless you for your generous and caring spirit.

Allan, Tue, 08 Mar 2011 11:58 pm: Reply
Gosh. I had a hard time trying to figure out how to remove this. Thank you for sharing.

Sean P., Sun, 20 Mar 2011 02:46 am: Reply
Thanks a million for the great instruction which turned my what seemed like a hopeless situation into success.

Peter Stevens, Fri, 08 Apr 2011 04:56 pm: Reply
Thanks a lot for the help...

I only wish I knew this earlier!

KFONG6932, Sun, 10 Apr 2011 09:02 am: Reply
Hi all, I am late for the party......

Thanks for the great instruction.

Does anyone know how to replace the d530 PSU with a normal ATX PSU ?

Thanks in advance.

Simon, Thu, 26 May 2011 09:08 pm: Reply
Has anyone replced a PSU for the D530 with a standard ATX PSU, if so can you give me any pointers.
I have just used the guide to remove the PSU, very good and clear instructions, many thanks.
ska, Fri, 27 May 2011 06:00 pm:
u can change any atx psu, but u can't use same cabinet, i use iball cabinet with iball psu.
remember u will see one massage when boot up 2 pin fan command is unplug, just plug that pin from ur earliar psu

JayEron, Sat, 28 May 2011 05:34 am: Reply
awesome ideas...work great. thanks

JayEron, Sat, 28 May 2011 05:34 am: Reply
I have an HP Compaq D530 sff computer. The computer won't power on although there is power supply to the mother board. But the Hard Drive indicator lid keeps blinking red. I've confirmed that the POWER SUPPLY UNIT (PSU) is defective having tried another PSU from a working computer.
Does anyone know what might be wrong with the HP Compaq D530 sff's PSU? Does anyone know how to fix it??? Please, help!!! email me eron.ox007@ymail.com
Thank you in advance

Gavian G, Thu, 21 Jul 2011 10:49 am: Reply
This post was a life saver, on a side note isnt it sad some of us still use this pc?

Ajay, Sat, 23 Jul 2011 12:58 am: Reply
Thank you very much! This was extremely helpful! I would not have been able to figure it out without this guide!


JMR, Sat, 06 Aug 2011 04:45 pm: Reply
Thanks so much for the pics. I have a few of these HP d530 SFF machines. I want to upgrade to Windows 7, which requires a video card be installed in the 8x AGP slot. There are plenty of cheap decent low-profile AGP cards out there for around $30 (nvidia geforce 6200), but they require at least 250W PSU (300W recommended). I have not been able to find an upgrade PSU (250W or greater) in this form factor. Does that mean I need a new case? Or is anyone successfully running windows 7 (aero) on an hp d530 with a geforce 6200 using the original 185w psu?

FCP, Sun, 07 Aug 2011 07:39 am: Reply
This is all I need it : ) Thanks

Andy, Tue, 09 Aug 2011 04:38 pm: Reply
Legend, bookmarked...i inherited about 40 of these gits with my latest job and they burn PSU's at a crazy rate

Mark G-J, Fri, 12 Aug 2011 05:07 am: Reply
I'm in the UK and have just replaced the PSU in a D530 SFF with generic 300W one from CPC:


It's not an exact replacement, but does fit nicely into the case.

When you first boot up you will get an error message saying "920-Fan Command 2 Pin Connector from Power Supply Not Connected".

The standard HP PSU has a "fan command" connector that isn't present on standard PSUs (a small two pin plug with white/red and black wires).

Simply cut the plug off the old PSU leaving a short length of wire on the plug and connect a 1K resistor between the wires. Plug the connector back into the motherboard and you will no longer get the error message at boot.

Hope this helps.


Filix, Tue, 20 Sep 2011 06:44 am: Reply

Raul Chu, Sun, 25 Sep 2011 10:34 am: Reply
Thanks for the instructions and thanks for the tip Mark G-J. I have removed many power supplies but never one so difficult.

Rob, Thu, 15 Dec 2011 12:54 pm: Reply
still gold after all this time, thanks for the concise instructions. I noticed some seem to think it easy to try and get the PSU out without removing the M/Board - good luck with that.

DJK, Wed, 04 Jan 2012 02:00 am: Reply
Fantastic instructions, saved me a huge amount of messing about. Thank you.

mmd, Sun, 15 Jan 2012 11:31 am: Reply
thanks for the info.. always handy

Chris, Mon, 16 Jan 2012 02:14 am: Reply
Thank you thank you thank you. Found this article when I was just about to go crazy ;)

Chas, Wed, 25 Jan 2012 02:38 pm: Reply
Got mine out without pulling the motherboard. Just had to completely remove the back panel.

Mike G, Mon, 30 Jan 2012 11:53 pm: Reply
Aussie summer, just added a low profile Nvidia MX-4000 to this baby. PSU running rather hot, but fan very quiet. How do I speed up the fan _before_ the PSU blows its stack? Seems like it has a faulty thermistor, just will not speed up when it needs more cooling

Mike G, Tue, 31 Jan 2012 11:33 am: Reply
Well I did take the PSU out, and removed the fan. I confirmed that (a) the fan was spinning just fine at high speed when supplied from a 12 volt battery; and (b) there appears to be a thermistor component soldered to the PSU circuit board RIGHT NEXT TO the fan!!

This would appear to be a serious design fault causing premature PSU failure due to incorrect thermistor placement, so the fan is "tricked" into believing the PSU is cool when really it may be boiling down the back end.

Suggested solutions:

(i) Reverse-mount the fan so it "sucks" air in from the back. The side louvres will probably get preference, so the rear components may not get adequate air flow. Furthermore I'd be blowing hot air under the floppy, and towards the HDD;

(ii) Cut the fan's red and black wires close to the PSU circuit board, route them outside the PSU case (easy!) when re-attaching the fan with its 4 bolts, and hot-wire it to a 12 volt line (yellow+. black-) to any of the hard/floppy devices, taking care to cover the soldered connections with long-life insulation tape.

I chose option (ii) and although my machine is now making more whining fan noise, I am confident the PSU will no longer be routinely running over-temperature.

Sheesh HP! Shame on your design flaw....

Rick G., Tue, 27 Mar 2012 05:30 am: Reply
thank you for this info.i got stuck & this is just what i needed.

Ian. S, Fri, 30 Mar 2012 01:13 pm: Reply
Thanks for the great guide guide - spot on

Yusuf, Thu, 26 Apr 2012 04:12 pm: Reply
Great job and great guide

JPN, Sun, 06 May 2012 08:34 pm: Reply

David, Mon, 04 Jun 2012 09:09 am: Reply
Excellent instructions, thanks! You have made my day a lot easier.

awais, Fri, 22 Jun 2012 04:21 pm: Reply
plz tell me how to jump start this supply.
plz plz

mughal, Fri, 22 Jun 2012 04:23 pm: Reply
how to jump start this supply.

jimi, Mon, 16 Jul 2012 08:47 pm: Reply
my computer hp d530 red light bilink on front plz solvemy this problem

Don S, Tue, 13 Nov 2012 03:12 pm: Reply
This did not help. There a no screws on the back.
The PSU goes accross the entier back of the computer, plus the back of has a different layout.

Tanveer, Tue, 13 Nov 2012 08:01 pm: Reply
good for me

Blake,E, Fri, 14 Dec 2012 12:48 pm: Reply
I had to remove the motherboard in my hp d530. maybe differant types are made. with everything removed the ps still would not come out. there were metal bands connecting the ps on the bottom of the chasis. I had to to litterly pry the power supply out with a crowbar just for the hell of it. Quite clear Hp didn't want customers to replace this power supply.

Eric R, Sat, 05 Jan 2013 05:37 am: Reply
Echo the "got stuck....excellent job" comment(s) above. Have replaced several power supplies in my day, even one of these goofy long ones, but never seen one where you had to remove the back, manipulate MB, etc. I had actually removed the corner screws from the rear panel and then thought, "This can't be right" and put them back. Thanks again for a great tutorial!

Tim Walls, Wed, 23 Jan 2013 04:56 am: Reply
What a pig! Thanks to your excellent instructions however I was able to complete the job. The warning not to trap the cable loom against the fan - it is rather a tight fit!

Doug, Thu, 24 Jan 2013 04:30 pm: Reply
I replaced one of these PSU's today. I removed the speaker then the PSU would slide out. I did not remove the motherboard or any of its screws.

Be sure to check the BIOS battery while you are in there.

Tasos. Mulder, Sat, 26 Jan 2013 03:39 am: Reply
How repair PDP124P 308439-001 the sam eas photo.
Anyone schematic diagramm ??Any Repair maual?

Bray Ochukwu, Tue, 30 Apr 2013 07:25 am: Reply
Thanks alot. Very helpful. ..

Mike, Mon, 17 Jun 2013 02:32 am: Reply
Thanks very much!

zack, Mon, 05 Aug 2013 05:57 pm: Reply
hey dude....can i replace the d530 PSU unit with normal desktop PSU unit not the slim 1 like this...

Stone, Mon, 22 Sep 2014 06:10 pm: Reply
Thank you very very much ! Its really helpful !

jpflemington, Fri, 24 Apr 2015 05:46 pm: Reply
What threw me initially is that almost everything in the D530 can be removed/replaced without tools, including the motherboard. Even the lid has unusually readable diagrams showing how. I bought several of these a few years ago so I have "spare parts" :), and when it came time to replace the power supply, I figured, "Okay, so where's the cute little green release latch?... uhhh, hello little green release latch? Where the &#(!! are you?!?"
So google to point me to the rescue, to wit, this page :)

I really couldn't see how to get the darn PS out... and I got nearly fooled because when one removes the single screw holding the PS to the back panel, the PS will slide forward about 1/8", a damn teaser :) If HP had designed the securing slider holes in the base so that it slid forward to remove rather than backwards, it would make this a lot easier (no need to remove rear panel & motherboard).

To answer a couple of questions and observations in many of the comments:
1) yeah, you can probably get the power supply out without lifting the motherboard, but there is risk of damage to the motherboard because the clearance is *very* tight if not outright overlapping. The motherboard is very easy to disengage, I think one would have to be something of a twit to not lift it just for sake of the principle.
2) Any regular ATX power supply will work as long as it supplies the minimum current specifications for the various voltage rails (+/- 5, +/- 12, +3.3), you just won't be able to put it inside the SFF case. You will have a "bag on a box" which is fine if you don't mind function over form.
3) I wouldn't even try running window7 or above on this machine. Memory is limited to 4GB which is pretty much what I would consider minimum for running win7 for much more than email or light browsing. The processor is a single core 3GHz, and while it does provide for hyper-threading, this is really no substitute for a multi-core CPU which win7 is designed to take advantage of.

You know, in the bad old days, I used to be able to fix computers by reading books. Alas, in the last 20 years computers have evolved into so many different form factors that one simply can't keep up by just knowing theory and general experience. Nowadays I can't even imagine fixing some of the stuff I do without the benefit of Google and the internet. Getting into almost any laptop is usually a very specific sequence which must be done just right. Likewise with this silly PS for the D530.

As with anything else, it's quite simple and easy ONCE YOU KNOW HOW :) And have somebody who's been there before and is willing to share their experience with others.

Kudos to the author, a fine job, well done. Top drawer.

Christine, Sat, 13 Jun 2015 09:39 am: Reply
This was most excellent, and pulled us out of the fire after a complete PSU failure!

Things could have been veerrrrrry bad here today without this clear, step - by - step.

Truly wonderful. We are grateful!

Omar, Tue, 02 Feb 2016 08:55 am: Reply


Jeff, Wed, 13 Jun 2018 05:26 pm: Reply
Nine years later this guide is still getting used!!
Thanks so much, very clear instructions and photos. Just changed my PSU with your help, cheers :-)

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